Consultation Notes

Before using a model you should ask your client to fill out a consultation form to take precaution incase of allergies or any other complications

Contemporary Victorian Hair Styles - American Horror Story

 For this I recreated a hairstyle from the TV series American Horror Story.

Items Needed:

• Curling Tong
• Pintail comb
• Hair gribs
• Hairspray

Technique:

• I started off by sectioning off the front sections of the hair to just behind the ear. I did this on either side of the head.
• With the remaining hair, I use the curling tong to curl the hair up into a bun
• Using hair grips I secured the hair into position, also using hairspray to help it stay in place
• The hair that I sectioned off, I used my pintail comb to section off three extra sections on either side of the head
• I curled the hair in on itself to create these twisted curls and secured with a hair grips
• I did this on either side of the head symmetrically. 
• Finally I hairsprayed all over to secure the hair in place

Dark Eyes and Lips

 In this lesson we learned about dark eyes and lips, this technique will be handy within the Claudia and Quentin part of the project.

Products needed:

• Kryolan Eyeshadow Palette
• Flat eyeshadow brush
• Fluffy blending brush
• Kryolan Lip Palette
• Lip brush

Technique:

• TIP: Apply the lightest colour first and build up the darker colours on top
• I chose to do a grey smokey eye so I had 3 shades of grey that I wanted.
• I used the flat eyeshadow brush and applied the lightest shade all over the eyelid
• Using the fluffy blending brush apply the dark grey into the socket of the eye and blending up to the eyebrow
• For the lip, using a darker shade of red and the lip brush line the lips accurately
• Using a clean lip brush getting a lighter shade of red, apply all over the lip and blend the lip liner and lip shade into each other

Light Scaring Using Molds

To stick on moulds you use prosaid which is used in the industry to stick on prosthetics
Proclean - remover

Before anything barrier cream (mold release) is needed into the mould shape, then you pour in the gelatine into the mold

TIP: melt away the edges of the wound with witch hazel 

Technique:

• Apply Prosaide onto the surface that you are stick the wound to and on the wound itself
• Make sure you get the glue to all the edges to help it stick better to the surface
• Wait until the glue goes clear
• Apply the wound to the area and press hard
• Using a cotton bud, rub witch hazel onto the edges - this will help dissolve the edges and blend better into the skin
• Once the edges have blended well, apply powder over the top to stop the wound from feeling sticky

Products needed for colouring

• Supra colour palette
• Wound filler
• Fake blood
• Angled brush
• Flat eyeshadow brush
• Puss (optional)
• Hard stipple brush

Technique:

• Using the angled brush, apply the red on the inside of the wound
• Using black, add depth into the wound to create more of a gruesome texture
• Wound filler is used to make the wound look as if there are clots
• With a cotton bud, carefully apply wound filler in the centre of the wound
• Using a thick, stipple brush drip into fake blood to flick onto and around the wound to create the splattered effect

Creating Estella

 For the Estella assessment, I used techniques that I had learned prior, for example creating the perfect black eye and from research about the era I created, what I believe, to be an accurate hairstyle for Estella

Products used for makeup:

• Supra colour palette
• Foundation base palette
• Foundation Brush
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Powder brush
• Round eyeshadow brush

Products used for hair:

• Curling tong
• Hair grips
• Pintail comb
• Hair tie
• Hairspray

Technique:

• For the makeup I created a black eye using reds, yellows and oranges to give an aged bruise look
• I used previous techniques and practices to create the Estella hairstyle which I think best represents Estella
• I wanted the makeup to be quite subtle so I did a simple black eye and a pale base to make it best fit to the era.

Creating Miss Havisham (Continuity)

For the continuity assessment I used all the techniques that I had previously learned such as the ageing techniques and the curling technique.

Products used for makeup:

• Supra colour palette 
• Foundation base
• Illamasqua Skin Base
• Mascara wand
• Foundation brush
• Pointy angled brush

Products used for hair:

• Curling tong
• Pintail comb
• Hairspray
• Hair Pins
• Hair Grips
• Little elastic hair tie

Things that I have changed from practice to the assessment:

• I curled the hair first then pinned the hair up to set which I believe made the curls last
• I added a white powder to the root of the hair to give an ageing effect
• In the bun, I added a plait to give detail

Practicing Miss Havisham

For my Miss Havisham makeup design I chose to do Miss Havisham aged, using techniques such as the ageing technique which we learned in class.

Products used:

• Supra Colour palette (red, blue, green, yellow and white)
• Foundation Palette (Alabaster)
• Foundation Brush
• Small angled brush
• Disposable mascara wand
• Cotton buds

Technique:

• I started off by applying a very pale base using the foundation palette, I mixed the palest shade (alabaster) and the Illamasqua skin base together to create a pale colour, I applied it all over the face, down the neck and on the ears and blended well into the hairline
• I then mixed blue, red, green and yellow from the Supra colour palette to create a dark brown shade
• Using a clean angled brush I asked my model to pull various faces to achieve the natural wrinkles in her face, as I applied the brown that I had made into the wrinkles
• Using my fingers and cotton buds I blended out the lines that I made in the forehead, frown lines, hallows of her cheeks, smile lines, crows feet
• I mixed a red and a tiny bit of white from the supra colour palette and applied using a rounded shadow brush, under the eyes (in the eye sockets) and around the nose to give a worn out effect
• Mixing grey and a bit of yellow, I made the colour for the eyebrows and eyelashes. I applied this with a mascara wand, going against the eyebrow hair to create sparse brows
• For the lips I asked my model to screw up her lips and I lightly applied a base over them to create a wrinkled lip effect

Victorian Hairstyles - Estella

This hairstyle is inspired for the character Estella

Products Needed:

• Pintail comb
• Curling Tongs
• Brush
• Hair grips
• Hair Pins

Technique:

• With the pintail comb, section off the front sections of each side of the hair, to about just middle of their ear
• Pin that hair aside
• From behind the ear on both sides create a pony tail at the crown of the head
• Using the curling tong, curl the hair that is in the ponytail, all in one direction and pin aside
• With the rest of the hair, curl in the same direction
• Pulling towards the centre of the head, hair from the sides of the neck so the hair is away from the face, pin into place
• With the curled ponytail, pin parts of the hair to give a large, volumious look
• For the front section of hair, split each side into two sections of hair, twist the hair around each other and bring back and pin under the pony tail. (twist towards the face)

Victorian Hairstyles - Miss Havisham

Products that you will need:

• Pintail comb
• Hair grips
• Curling tongs
• Hair clips

Technique:

• Section off the first 3 inches of hair at the front of the head, until the ear on both sides. Clip away
• With the back of the head, section away the hair at the very base of the neck
• With the rest of the hair, using a pintail comb smoothen out the hair into a bun
• Section the ponytail into town, two section of hair and twist around each other and form hair into bun 
• Use hair grips to secure bun
• With the front section of hair, separate hair into into 5 sections on either side of the head and using the curling tong, curl each section into the face
• After curling the front sections of the hair, run the fingers through the hair to create a distressed (relaxed) look

Historical Victorian Hair

Victorian Hairstyles are made by using techniques such as plaiting, sleek, curled and using the bun technique which we learned back term.

Victorian's didn't cut their hair, and used detailing at the side of the head such as plaits and curls as detailing.

Products you will need:

• Pintail comb
• Curling Tongs
• Brush
• Pins

Technique:

• Use the comb to create a middle parting
• Using the pintail comb, section off the front section to just above the ear and pin up
• Repeat on the other side of the head
• For the back of the hair, create a middle to high bun
• Using the comb, comb the hair up to a sleek ponytail
• Split the hair into two and twist around each other
• Wrap around the hair to create a bun
• Use pins to secure the bun

Front section of hair:

• Using a pintail comb, section off an inch thick piece of hair
• Start at the base of the tong with the tong facing the ceiling, wrap the hair around the wand and hold for 5 seconds
• When curling the hair, always curl into the face as it fits the era
• Repeat to all of the front section of hair

Recreating Burns

3 types of Gelatine


- Gelglyk gelatine - Flesh, dark flesh and blood colours
-  Normal Asda Gelatine
-  Geleffects slab

• Cut off chunks and put into a bowl into the microwave
• For Gelglyk put into a bowl with water surrounding it

You are able to melt down gelatine as many time as you like

Health and Safety:

• Test the temperature, burns can occur
• Do not reheat if glitter has been mixed into the gelatine
• Make sure the temperature is warm but not boiling

Mix aqua  colour after melted to add colour to the gelatine. You are able to mix anything into the gelatine, you apply and it sticks to the skin.

Glicerine - adds shine and sweat

Gelack in a bowl of water, less product means less time in the microwave

1 minute in the microwave - check after 15 seconds, if not melted, in for longer

Technique:

• Using a spatula test the gelatine is not too hot
• Use spatula brush on the gelatine onto the stick, when applied pluck the gelatine using the spatula to create a 'bubbled' effect.
• Rough edges
• Using a cool hairdryer, dry the gelatine - it has a sticky texture when dry
• Powder over the top to prevent sticking
• Start with the dark red from the supra colour palette and apply to the 'burn' blending the colours into each other
• Adding different colours including red, black and yellow to create the desired burn
• Blend in the colours, try stippling the supra colours onto the burn for a different effect

TIP: add glicerine to make it look fresh

Cuts, Scratches, Bruises and the Perfect Black Eye

When creating bruises you need to think about how old is the bruise? Because there are different stages to a bruise which indicates different colours.

• Moulding wax (plasto) (syn wax)
• Latex - makes more fleshy
• Mastics (optional)
• Sealer (optional) needs coloured

Bruises

• Supra colour palette
• Palettes - Bruises/cuts and grazes
• Blend - Supra colour
• Moisturiser

Make sure there are no hard edges when creating cuts and bruises

Wound:

• Mould the wound first, the apply onto the skin
• Latex over the top to secure
• Apply skin colour over the top using foundation
• Wound filler into the centre of the wound (gives depth in cut)
• Apply fake blood as it gives it more of a 3D effect
• Think about how old the cut is?
• Don't powder over the top, use fixer spray

Always create the wound first

Tip: Apply puss into the cut or mix into the fake blood

Black eye tips:

Black eye - apply base first then create the black on top

Don't powder - looks better shiny (apply Vaseline onto to create more of a shinier look)

Scratches - blood onto black sponge, drag lightly across the skin

Black eye - red eye drops

Do research on the internet to get the real thing (not make up artists recreating black eyes or cuts)

How old?

How it was done?

How was the damage caused?

Old wounds:

• TuPlast
• Non Flexible collodion
• Barrier cream under collodion
• Latex
• Sealer
• Synwax
• Wound filler
• Blood
• Puss
• Tuplast 
• Vaseline
• Stipple sponge
• Barrier Cream

Technique:

• Warm up Synwax inbetween your hands
• Layer on the wax using a spatula
• Blend the edges into the skin by working it into the skin
• Wipe palette knife
• Using a blunt knife, make a cut into the centre of the wax.
• Pour latex into a bowl and using a cotton bud apply latex all over the count and the blended out edges
• Blend latex out further
• Dry with a cool hairdryer
• Using pins, lift up wax to create a deeper cut
• Apply flesh colour over the top
• Wound filler, apply with spatula and pin into the centre of the wound
• Use a fine makeup brush, build up texture
• Add blood into the centre of the wound to give a 3D effect

Split lip with collodion:

• Rub barrier cream on the lip
• Paint on collodion
• Push skin together to create a dip
• Hair dry on cool setting
• Add another layer
• Keep pushed together
• Hairdry
• Build up layers for more of an effective look
• Can use blood for colouring.

Craping Of The Skin

Health and Safety

• Always test makeup and latex on the model before

Things you will need:

• Barrier cream
• White sponges
• Bowl
• Latex
• Hairdryer

Technique:

• Apply barrier cream to the back of the your hand
• Then apply a small amount onto the area that you will be working on, rubbing the cream into the area and leave to dry
• Shake up the latex and pour a small amount into the bowl
• Using a small sponge, dip into the latex
• Stretch out the skin on the hand and keep tight, using the sponge stipple the latex onto the hand.
• Feather out the edges so it is a smooth transition
• Blend out the latex
• Using a hairdryer on a cool setting, hair dry the latex until set
• Keeping the skin tight as you do this)
• Don't have the hairdryer on a fast speed as it will effect the latex, constantly move the hairdryer then test the latex is dry.
• Layer the latex by repeating the previous steps.
• Once about 2-3 layers of latex has been applied, ease the skin base into its normal place
• Push the skin together, and manipulate the skin
• Powder over the top to previous stickiness.

Theatrical ageing

Things that is needed:

• Small pointy brush
• Supra colour palette
• Foundation brush 
• Foundation Palette
• Mascara wand (disposable)

Technique:

• Apply base using the Kryolan foundation palette and using the foundation brush
• Moisturiser in the lid of the supra palette to help blend out the ageing lines
• Make model crease their brows to find the natural lines of the face
• Mix yellow, dark red, green and a little black from the Supra colour palette together until created a dark brown shade
• Wipe off the brush make sure the brush is clean and no excess colour is on the brush
• Mix in moisturiser into the brown shade that you have made using the back of the hand
• Get the model to smile and draw (using the brown supra colour and the small pointy brush) into the smile lines on the cheeks
• Use your finger to blend in the line, also could use a cotton bud as well
• Repeat same technique around the nose, the crease of the lips
• Suck in the cheeks, and fill in the hallows of their cheeks to create an ageing shadow
• Repeat same technique in the temples
• Ask model to smile and squint their eyes so you are able to define the crows feet and inner eye
• Using the brown supra colour, add a tiny bit of brown in the eye sockets under the eye and blend using fingers and cotton buds
• Crease the clients eyebrows and draw in the frown lines and cupid's bow, blending softly
• Apply the colour to the line in the chin.
• For the eyebrows mix white and a little yellow
• Using the mascara wand mix the white onto the brush, brushing against the hair to create sparse looking eyebrows.
• Repeat same on eyelashes
• For the lips, ask model to screw up their lips and apply base to the lips.

Things that you will need for the broken skin and nicotine teeth:

• Cotton patter and cotton bud
• Nicotine stain
• Black stipple sponge
• Supra colour palette
• Brush

Technique:

• Using the supra colour palette and a thin brush, mix dark red and a little black to create a dark red shade
• Dip the black stipple sponge into the colour a gently stipple onto the cheeks, nose and the chin to create a broken skin/vein look.
• For the teeth, dry each tooth using a cotton patter, using the cotton bud apply the nicotine stain over the dry teeth.
• A technique would be to stipple to stain onto the teeth rather train wiping it on.
• Leave to dry

This technique could be useful in this project because of creating Miss Havisham.

Health and Safety:

Make sure your hands are washed as you will be touching the model. 

Make sure all tools including makeup brushes and products have been sanitised and are fit for use.

Ask client if they're allergic to any of the products that are being used.